Tablo

Once again my travels take me to Essen, and as I drive north on the A52 for the umpteenth time this year, it strikes me just how many great places to eat Essen has to offer. One of them is Tablo, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year and has, over that time, earned a reputation well beyond Essen's city limits as an excellent Turkish restaurant.

The man behind this success is patron Yilmaz Doğan, whose fine Turkish cooking focuses above all on creations with the very best fish. The large display cabinet built into the dining room, which shows off all sorts of freshly caught...